Wikked_Fool Show full post »
Skydiver
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Thanks for the explanation Scott. I can build the heck out of an airplane but when it comes to amps and load ratings, my eyes just glaze over. I really need to study more on the subject. So bottom line, I need to buy higher C rating batteries and higher rated esc's to make my batteries last longer? Most of my batteries are indeed 2200 25c. I do use a voltage alarm set to 3.7 volts so I'm not running them down too low. What's the minimum I should set my alarm to and what about storage voltage, what are the recommendation on that? I don't own a watt meter, guess it's time I invested in one. Do you have any recommendations on one for me? I bet Dave's guides that he sells on the forum would help me a bunch on this topic. I'm sure he covers the electrical aspects of the hobby in good detail? Thanks in advance for your help!

Hey there, even at full voltage, the 2200 kv motors will only (supposedly) draw 27 amps
or so, but play it safe and run a 40 amp esc. I personally use transistor heat syncs and drill
small holes for tie wraps to hold them to the esc's....
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Skydiver
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I'm not 100% sure about the brand, I'll have to check on that, but I think it is a red brick ESC? And I definitely don't know about motor brand, It came from hobbyking. Do any of you have a certain brand of motors/ESC's/servo's that you like best? Does anyone make ESC's with the XT60 and bullet leads already soldered on? I had to do mine myself.

Hi, since you said you had done your own soldering, I would try redoing the job. It's possible that you have a cold solder joint. We are not perfect.. Just make
sure you use a quality resin core solder and an iron or gun that is the correct wattage to do the job..
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trying2fly
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Hi, since you said you had done your own soldering, I would try redoing the job. It's possible that you have a cold solder joint. We are not perfect.. Just make
sure you use a quality resin core solder and an iron or gun that is the correct wattage to do the job..

Headsup RC has all the connectors many already soldered. Buy them all finished because you always run the risk of a cold solder joint because it is difficult on some of them to get the connector hot enough to solder without ruining the connector. chas
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Wikked_Fool
After coming back to this post over a year later, i'm so glad it has been continued, as I am about to build another plane and surely have forgotten what i had learned about my last screw up xD thanks everyone!
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solentlife
HeadsUp RC is no longer around of course. It was a USA supplier anyway - so sorry to our US cousins but not much use over here.

I have read parts of the year old thread ...

If a motor is Pulsing - that could be the ESC going into LVC ... Low Voltage Cutoff ... if user sets it that voltage reduces - what happens is that when ESC reduces power to the motor, the battery recovers silightly and ESC then delivers full .. but of course that causes voltage drop and ESC actions ereduction again ... this happens literally rhythmically and appears to be pulsing. I have two models that do this ... never bothered to program it out as it actually is not so bad ... I hear the pulsing - I reduce throttle and line up to land.

3.7V in my mind is too high a setting and I would suggest 3.3 or 3.4V ... why ? When the battery is delivering power - it suffers voltage drop. It is NOT the actual battery level - but a lower level due to demand on it and Internal Resistance. If you set your alarm level too high - you will get very short flight times as the voltage drop hits. Lower the alarm setting and your flight times become much better while still protecting the LiPo. Setting at 3.3 - 3.4V is not bad as the battery will usually recover 2 or 3 points once rested ... 
This is easily checked by setting your alarm and then after a flight where alarm sounds, land ... measure immediately the voltages... let battery rest and cool ... measure again.

If the original data refers to the typical Turnigy 2826 2200kv motor, 2200 3S LiPo .... then unless its running a silly overlarge prop - which for the model stated is unlikely - you should be able to realise about 9 - 10 minutes at cruise and variable throttle. At full throttle less of course. That means pulling LiPo down to about 3.4V in flight. If the LVC is cutting in at 30secs flight .... then something is drastically wrong with setup. Most likely bad connection or LiPo battery is bad. 

Sorry If I've repeated what others may have posted and I know its an old thread .. 
I'll fly anything if I can launch it ! Youtube : solentlifeuk
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