Wikked_Fool Show full post »
Wikked_Fool
Okay, so the ESC manual says constant beeping means my throttle position is not at the lowest, so after following the instructions on how to set the throttle points, it still isn't working, would linking the manual for the ESC help anybody help me?
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jimbosflyin
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Okay, so the ESC manual says constant beeping means my throttle position is not at the lowest, so after following the instructions on how to set the throttle points, it still isn't working, would linking the manual for the ESC help anybody help me?

I got it now,reverse your channel 3.I had to do that way in the beginning also,after that reset your throttle.I bet that is it.
Parkflyers International 
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Wikked_Fool
Okay, I reversed the throttle on my controller, and it beeps 3 times to signal the battery and then it connects, but it still won't turn when I throttle up, is there another step after reversing the throttle switch?
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jimbosflyin
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Okay, I reversed the throttle on my controller, and it beeps 3 times to signal the battery and then it connects, but it still won't turn when I throttle up, is there another step after reversing the throttle switch?

Did you reset your stick-throttle points ?Turn radeo on-put throttle all the way up-connect battery after your beeps are done bring the throttle down and wait.disconnect battery and plug it back in,that should be it.
Parkflyers International 
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Wikked_Fool
It turns very slowly now and as if the brake is being applied at the same time, it doesn't want to spin very much.
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Wikked_Fool
Okay, I let the smoke out of my ESC... dammit i don't know what happened
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jimbosflyin
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It turns very slowly now and as if the brake is being applied at the same time, it doesn't want to spin very much.

I don't know eather,strange.It seemed like we were on the right road.
Parkflyers International 
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Wikked_Fool
Well, I'll just have to get another one. Can you recommend one that should just plug and play? I was hoping this one would haha. On the other hand, setting throttle position on my other ESC seemed to help with the cut off issue and now it will run the motor indefinitely.
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Wildthing
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Well, I'll just have to get another one. Can you recommend one that should just plug and play? I was hoping this one would haha. On the other hand, setting throttle position on my other ESC seemed to help with the cut off issue and now it will run the motor indefinitely.

Remember what I said if it doesn't seem to be working right don't push it, you just burn up parts really quick.
When you order more esc's get atleast 40A ones.
BUT, if your tx isn't right or what ever the case is be careful testing. The motor should either go or not, no half way.
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Wikked_Fool
Yeah I realize now that is sound advice, I'm definitely going to buy a 40A and take my time from now on.
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jimbosflyin
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Well, I'll just have to get another one. Can you recommend one that should just plug and play? I was hoping this one would haha. On the other hand, setting throttle position on my other ESC seemed to help with the cut off issue and now it will run the motor indefinitely.

I have been useing the 40 amp Hobby wing Skywalker from Value Hobby,cheap and reliable.For a little more money Turnigy is also a good choice.
Parkflyers International 
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SukhoiLover
I use a T6 V2, and here is what I found:

First bind the TX and RX—binding plug in the RX “bat” slot, plane battery hooked up (blinking red light on RX), hold down on “bind range test” button (on the left lower face of the TX) and turn on TX. Light on RX should turn solid (no blinking). Turn off TX and unplug plane battery and binding plug.

Make sure throttle is full aft (idle) and that the small toggle switch in front of the throttle (on the front side of the TX to the left of the antenna) is towards you (not away from you). You must do both throttle idle AND switch towards you. Now turn on the TX and THEN plug in the plane battery. The order is important—if you plug in the plane battery BEFORE you turn on the TX your servos will work but your throttle will not.

Once everything is set, you will need to activate the switch (push it away from you) to engage the throttle. The switch is like a safety so you cannot turn on the TX and have the prop spin unexpectedly.

One last “gotcha”—you may need to move the slide switch (trim) just to the right of the throttle. It is the one that move in the same direction as the throttle (forward and aft). Sometimes the throttle may want to run very slowly if this trim is too far forward—even at idle. It varies depending on the ESC/motor combination. You can’t always start with the trim switch full aft to eliminate that as a problem.

Hope that helps. Fly safely,

SL
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Bigron
Is it possible that you are drawing too much power for the esc. I would be curious what a wattmeter would read. Guys ar my club are always having motor issues and most of the time they are drawing 30+ amps on a 15a esc. Even thugh it appears you have everything sized reasonably correct, knowing your actuat draw may be revealing.
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Wildthing
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Is it possible that you are drawing too much power for the esc. I would be curious what a wattmeter would read. Guys ar my club are always having motor issues and most of the time they are drawing 30+ amps on a 15a esc. Even thugh it appears you have everything sized reasonably correct, knowing your actuat draw may be revealing.
Not to be sarcastic but you answered your own question , if you are constantly drawing 30A and you only have a 15A esc you are going to burn up the esc. To much prop on a motor and you burn it up. Low C rating on the battery and you have a high powered esc and motor pulling more then the battery can take and you burn it up.

Having a watts meter plus icing on the cake is a thrust stand you can test and measure all your combinations to match the power setup., battery, esc, motor and prop.
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Skydiver
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Probably the most commonly used motor on these parkjets is the HobbyKing Turnigy 2826 2200kv motor. I have about 10 of them and never had a problem with any of them. A good esc, also from HobbyKing is the Turnigy Plush 30A. You can't go wrong with this combo. Try to resist using the cheap Tower Pro servos on Amazon. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Also from HobbyKing is the Hextronics HXT900 9 gram servo. These are reliable and affordable.

I hope you figure out your problem soon.

Hi guys, I seem to remember Dave using very soft (malleable) aluminium wire and making a flat coil of it and using a wire tie to attach it to the side of the esc as a heat sync. If your esc is in a good airflow, it should take care of getting rid of the heat problem. Good contact with the esc is essential.. p.s. get a servo tester to make sure they work too.. And use a fairly large diameter wire like 1/8 inch..
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