Sidewayskiwi
Running Turnigy 2826 2200kv motors
What is the next step up in power?
6-7 inch props for parkjets
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solentlife
I started to use the 'V-Spec' 2350kv motor ... slightly smaller but more power .... pushes my Mig 29 Glue and Go around nicely ... 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/2205-2350-kv-cw-v-spec-mongoose.html

[img][91632_1_high][/img]

On a 6x4 or 6x5 ... it screams ... you can get in CW or CCW ... but to be honest I ignored the CW / CCW and set up as needed.

Its also worth looking at Banggood and RC Timer at the Multi-rotor stuff ... loads of alternatives ... 
I'll fly anything if I can launch it ! Youtube : solentlifeuk
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jimbosflyin
Running Turnigy 2826 2200kv motors
What is the next step up in power?
6-7 inch props for parkjets
You should watch e3scott's videos on his reviews and testing of prop in slot motors with quad motors,his planes are sick fast.He also reviews different props on all of them getting the best performance.
Parkflyers International 
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solentlife
Its always a trade off .... 

Some on this forum know I was part of a group on another Forum called : Need for Speed.

We took the Parkjet on Hobby King (not the later smaller version) and hotted them up to see what we could get out of them. I recorded 222kph but actually had hit over 250kph but sadly recording was corrupt.
It was obvious as we pushed the power / speed envelope - the motors were increasing in power drain tremendously ... The barrier seemed to be about the 140 - 150kph mark and to get past that took quite a jump in power ... 

To get my 222 - it took a 3800kv 450 Heli motor on a 5x5 prop sucking amps like crazy .. I had metered near 100A on ground and it allowed me just a very short run indeed ... less then 2 mins if I didn't throttle manage. 

I appreciate that OP is probably not looking for such extreme, but I am illustrating the exponential increase in motor against speed ... which gets worse as you push faster. Achieving 120kph is not hard at all ... and still stays in the relative manageable power bands. But higher and serious thought is needed.

Balancing of battery size to motor / prop to achieve better speed / 'grunt' ... but also bearing in mind the weight increase.

A little rough trick I used for a ratio of battery / motor / prop is to multiply the factors ... (assuming that prop diameter remains same) ....

Motor KV x Volts x Pitch ...... a very rough but useable ratio to be guide to up / down in parts. I know purists will laugh at it - but as long as you regard it as a rough tool only - it works. You could if you wanted modify it to any factor to suit your purpose ... amps for example.
I'll fly anything if I can launch it ! Youtube : solentlifeuk
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Sidewayskiwi
solentlife wrote:
Its always a trade off .... 

Some on this forum know I was part of a group on another Forum called : Need for Speed.

We took the Parkjet on Hobby King (not the later smaller version) and hotted them up to see what we could get out of them. I recorded 222kph but actually had hit over 250kph but sadly recording was corrupt.
It was obvious as we pushed the power / speed envelope - the motors were increasing in power drain tremendously ... The barrier seemed to be about the 140 - 150kph mark and to get past that took quite a jump in power ... 

To get my 222 - it took a 3800kv 450 Heli motor on a 5x5 prop sucking amps like crazy .. I had metered near 100A on ground and it allowed me just a very short run indeed ... less then 2 mins if I didn't throttle manage. 

I appreciate that OP is probably not looking for such extreme, but I am illustrating the exponential increase in motor against speed ... which gets worse as you push faster. Achieving 120kph is not hard at all ... and still stays in the relative manageable power bands. But higher and serious thought is needed.

Balancing of battery size to motor / prop to achieve better speed / 'grunt' ... but also bearing in mind the weight increase.

A little rough trick I used for a ratio of battery / motor / prop is to multiply the factors ... (assuming that prop diameter remains same) ....

Motor KV x Volts x Pitch ...... a very rough but useable ratio to be guide to up / down in parts. I know purists will laugh at it - but as long as you regard it as a rough tool only - it works. You could if you wanted modify it to any factor to suit your purpose ... amps for example.

My problem down here in nz is crap foam no depron but reject stock Adams readiboard so ends up heavier than standard for my parkjets 
Reinforcements etc take their toll
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solentlife
One way to help keep weight down is to use Polyurethane Glue ... (Gorilla Glue) or of course UHU Por ... As soon as Hot Glue or Epoxy is used ... weight starts going on ..

I really like PU glue ... we have a Generic version in the shops at vastly cheaper price than GG branded.
I'll fly anything if I can launch it ! Youtube : solentlifeuk
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Sidewayskiwi
solentlife wrote:
One way to help keep weight down is to use Polyurethane Glue ... (Gorilla Glue) or of course UHU Por ... As soon as Hot Glue or Epoxy is used ... weight starts going on ..

I really like PU glue ... we have a Generic version in the shops at vastly cheaper price than GG branded.

yes just use hot glue as a "spot weld " item got a silicon based super glue here i found its really good with foam from adhesive to leading edge treatments
been going a bit overboard with glass tape/glue figlass reinforcements so cutting them back now 
using balsa wood in strategic places instead of the figlass as its ;lighter again 
latest build used balsa on the leading edge kf4 cuts as we all know the leading edges cop a beating and it stiffens the wings 
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solentlife
Where previously I would run a bead of epoxy or hot glue along a seam or fold - I now run a thin bead of PU to strengthen the seam, then seal with a thin lightweight 'painters tape'. The weight difference per cm / inch is probably tiny - but over a whole model such as the FRC Mosquito etc. could be a few gr or oz's ... 
I'll fly anything if I can launch it ! Youtube : solentlifeuk
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JTiger
Maybe check out some of the *glances over shoulder and lowers voice to conspiratorial whisper* Flite Test  designs as they use readiboard as well. The construction techniques they use are sometimes a little different than ours to take advantage of the paper. And quad motors usually have more punch for the size than the 2826s.
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Sidewayskiwi
JTiger wrote:
Maybe check out some of the *glances over shoulder and lowers voice to conspiratorial whisper* Flite Test  designs as they use readiboard as well. The construction techniques they use are sometimes a little different than ours to take advantage of the paper. And quad motors usually have more punch for the size than the 2826s.

Yea doing some of their designs as it doesn't matter if foam board is warped 
Ironically all my FT builds come in on or under target weight and boy they honk along 
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