How the MASTER PARTS LIST Works
- This is a list of everything you'll need to build the V2-V5 PDF parkjets.
- The idea is you buy all these parts once and move them from plane to plane.
TIP: When picking out a motor, do try and get the same brand of ESC to match the motor. A motor and ESC that are made from the same company “talk to each other” much better.
TIP: Heat is the enemy of electronics so be sure to have good airflow for your ESC especially. After your first flight, check to see if your ESC is hot. If so, cut some small intakes in your plane so it can breath better.
TIP: This the most popular sized battery we all fly. If you are looking to save weight, you can get the same kind of battery with a smaller mAh (11.1v, 1000mAh, 30C). This will shave off a couple ounces of weight (and a few minutes of runtime).
TIP: Should you get a “pusher” prop? No, you don’t need to. Get a normal prop and mount it with the numbers facing forward. Then reverse any 2 of the 3 ESC wires to reverse motor rotation if needed. Sounds crazy but it’s that easy!
TIP: You only need 4 channels to fly these planes but having a 6 channel means you have room to grow in the future (spoilerons, flaps, etc). Focus on staying within your budget. You can always upgrade later.
TIP: The radio needs a receiver to send your control commands to. These work well for our parkjets since they are so light. Keep in mind loose receivers can fall into your propeller so make sure this is taped down tight inside your plane!
TIP: The cheap servos do work and will get you in the air. The cons are they are a bit sloppy and have to be replaced with time. The high quality servos are great for the long run. Start simple and you can always upgrade later.
TIP: If you want to do elevons (optional) and your radio does not have mixing, you can get an onboard mixer if needed. For starting off, you don’t need this. The Instructions in the PDF plans will help you wire up your plane.
TIP: Your Li-po batteries are made up of 3 separate cells. Over time one can become unbalanced from the others. The cheap battery chargers/balancers work great! It’s what I use.
TIP: If you are just starting off, you don’t need this. A BEC is needed when you are running more than 4 servos. The BEC helps deal with the extra servo voltage load.
TIP: Another item beginners don’t need. Advanced guys enjoy these for more advanced moves. In the future you might try one, they are alot of fun!
TIP: You are going to need a total of (2) 27x39 inch sheets per plane. Depron is our favorite build foam, but dollar foam, blue core, fan fold, craft or foam will also work. Best to start with whatever foam you can easily get a hold of.
TIP: Do spend the money on some 3mm carbon tube. It makes your plane perform best (no flexing). Cut it with a fine tooth saw and be careful not to breathe the dust. Details in your PDF Instructions.
TIP: If possible, get some 2mm thick plywood (or a bit thicker is fine) and use the PDF stencil from the plans. This motor mount fits our PDF planes perfectly.
TIP: If possible, get some 2mm thick plywood (or a bit thicker is fine) and use the PDF stencil. These control horns have the best proportions of any we’ve tried.
TIP: Be sure to thread the plastic clevis half way down the threads. This way you can adjust them some at the field (trust me). Bend and cut to fit as noted in the Instructions.
Self Adhesive High Strength Cross Filament Fiber Tape 24mm x 50mHOBBYKING
TIP: Get the 3m extreme packing tape! This is the strongest, lightest stuff for taping your control surfaces on (as shown in the Instructions). if not, the link above is good stuff!
TIP: You can never have enough of these. They are used to hold down your battery hatch as explained in the Instructions. Get more than you need, you’ll use them around the house too.
TIP: This is the “foundation glue” for building. Super strong, and gives you some time to work as you are putting the plane together.
TIP: Use this for “gap filling” and repairs. It’s a bit heavy but as a beginner don’t worry about that for now. Build, fly, crash, repair, repeat. Your next plane can be nice.
TIP: Advanced guys love this stuff as it’s much lighter. Works great on large surface areas like KFs!
TIP: When you get your paper plans printed out you use this stuff to spray them down on the foam to then cut out. It’s better, faster, and easier than pinning the plans to foam. Go easy, just a light mist is needed!
As the blades dull they start to “push” through the foam causing rough edges. So you want replaceable razor blades so the blade is always sharp and cutting cleanly through the foam.
TIP: Stick one side of the Velcro to your battery and the other side inside your plane as shown in your Instructions. Little 1” sections are nice so if one piece comes up it doesn't all come up.
Cutting out the foam parts, you’re going to need a couple straight edges. A nice yard stick and also a square
TIP: Just simple needle nose pliers is nice for bending the pushrods to fit as noted in the Instructions, but a set will come in handy!
TIP: This 2mm screwdriver is used to “pluck out” the foam so there is a snug canal for the 3mm carbon to squish into. Makes sense when you see it in the Instructions. All so great for servo screws etc.
TIP: Some pins from your wife’s closet and some masking tape are used to hold the foam together while the glue dries during building.
Paint & Stickers
TIP: Most paints will melt foam! Make sure your paint is foam safe and test it on some scraps first. Spray in light coats a foot away and let it dry and then repeat.
TIP: We found this cool silver sheen tape that makes cool looking cockpits. Put it on before you paint. Also, black stickers or markers also make a cool cockpit.
- Hope this Master Parts List helps! Post a question/comment on the forum.