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ParkFlyer Power Systems (Props, Motor, etc) Class 7

Posted February 26th, 2009 at 09:02 AM by ThursdayBeginnerBlog

Check out the EBOOK HERE

We literally design all our planes around the propeller that's how important this is. Most guys get a plane cause it looks cool and then just slap on any old prop they have laying around. That is the fastest way to smoke your motor or at best have a very poor performing airplane thats hard to fly.

Your propeller is like tires on a car, its what actually makes your plane MOVE! If you put monster truck tires on a sports car you are going to overwork the engine and smoke it! If you put sports car tires on a monster truck you are going to under work the engine and very poor performance.

Look, details, specs, and all the book knowledge stuff is not my favorite thing, BUT learning the right info can save you hundreds of dollars real quick. What you need to master first is READING PROPS!

On a 6x4 prop lets say, the first number is always the length (its 6inches long) and the second is the pitch or the bite (in this case its 4). Certain props are best for certain applications. For example a 6x4 prop is perfect for an average speed jet and a 10x3.8 prop is very good for a 3D slow flying plane.

You then find a motor that will meet this prop. Then a ESC to meet the motor, and a battery to fuel all that. So your order of importance is this, now look close at the order:

Prop --> Plane --> Motor --> ESC --> Battery

Most guys get into trouble cause they get some cool looking plane, buy a motor and ESC that looks about right, grab whatever prop is laying around and find the cheapest battery they can get. This why your motor and ESC has burned out and your battery has puffed up already!

I'd tell you more here but there is alot to it and you really need to understand it. Get our ebook it will help out alot. Its been a best seller for us. Worst case scenario if its not what you where looking for just email me personally (I will see your email within 1-2 days) and we will send you your hard earned money back. Based on the feedback we have gotten over the last year, I know it will be very helpful to you!
Dave's email: RCSPowers@Gmail.com

This ebook has helped hundreds of guys save tens of thousands of dollars collectively over the long run cause you can buy the right set up for your plane the first time, keep it for the long run, and NOT smoke your equipment!

Check out the EBOOK HERE
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The Basics of RC Helicopters (Class 6)

Posted February 19th, 2009 at 11:19 AM by ThursdayBeginnerBlog
Here is a $20 RC Flight Simulator.

The helicopters I like and recommend the most for beginners are the new coaxial 4CH helis. Here is why:
1) Self stabilizing (you still have to know how to fly though).
2) Very strong and can take a minor crash with no damage.
3) Light and simple. Not alot of parts on them at all.
4) Can fly inside and outside in light wind.
5) Won't cut your arm off if they hit you!
6) Most come in complete RTF packages and even have simulators with some!
7) The are simple enough to learn on but fun enough for a pro.

Here are two 4CH coaxial helicopters I like and recommend and where to get them from:
The Dolphin and the Comanche both come with free flight simulators!

There are other 4CH coaxial helicopters at my friend's company, XHeli.com
http://www.xheli.com/coaxialmodels.html

And here is Dave's TOP 10 HELICOPTER pics so far. We will be trying more helis and updating the page in the future but it does give you a good start to chose from.
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How To Set Up A 3-6Ch Radio (Class 5)

Posted February 12th, 2009 at 10:26 AM by ThursdayBeginnerBlog

Dual Rates
I use dual rates alot on my test planes or very aerobatic planes. This allows you to have 2 settings for both your elevator and aileron and they are adjustable. If your plane is way too maneuverable on the pitch (elevator) and the roll (ailerons) then you can flip the switches on your radio in flight and calm them down to a predetermined setting. So for example you can be at 100% throws, hit the switch and your throws will go to 40% or whatever you set them to. Dual rates are very useful and used by most guys.

Exponential
This "softens" up your throws I guess you would say. You controls will still move the same amount its just that the reaction from your stick to your servos is different. If you have your expo cranked up and move your sticks just a little the servos will not respond until you start to move the sticks alot. This could help if your plane is way too touchy and you have shaky hands.

Elevon/Delta Mix
Elevon and Delta mixing is the same thing, they are synonyms. This is just mixing your elevator with your ailerons. You will need to do this on any plane that does not have a standard wing and elevator such as flying wings and delta jets such as our F-117. If your radio does not have this setting you can buy external mixers.

V-tail Mix
Same idea as elevon/delta mixing, except this time you are not mixing the elevator and ailerons, you are mixing the elevator and rudders together. This is used on any V-tail type plane.

Flaperons/Spoilerons
Here you are putting a servo in each wing for your ailerons. Then plug one servo/wing into your aileron channel on your receiver and theother into your Ch6. Then you go into your radio and activate "flaps" or " flaperons" or whatever yours calls it. Now when you hit your Ch6 switch on your radio both your ailerons will go down and act as flaperons. You just set this up upsidedown in your radio setting to do spoilerons.

Bomb drop/Landing Gear
This is usually Ch5 on most airplane radios. Its a do-whatever-you-want-switch. Its not usually mixed to anything though on some radios you can mix it to other channels if you are really fancy. Basically, when you throw the switch one way it moves a servo all the way to the left, when you flip the switch the other way, it throws the servo all the way to the right. You can go into your radio and adjust the throw percentage to as much or as little as you want. You then can rig up things like landing gear, bomb drops, whatever you want.
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How To Set Up A 3-6Ch Radio (Class 4)

Posted February 5th, 2009 at 11:32 AM by ThursdayBeginnerBlog
Items that were mentioned in this video:

Free Plans Extra 300

Grayson Sukhoi EPP

Ready to Fly Wild Hawk

Y-connector for servo slaving

BEC to absorb extra volatage when running 6 or more servos per ESC.


A few notes of review to remember from this week's video. And remember, your 3-6 channel radio may or may not have all of these functions. You need to consult your personal instruction manual and work through it. Sorry, there is no shortcut to this. Invest your time, get it figured out, and it will be easy after that.

Servo Centering
Before you install your servo into your plane, be sure that it's centered and your radio trim is in neutral. Turn your radio on, center the trim, plug the servo into the receiver, and let it center itself. Now you know it's centered and ready to be put in your plane.

Servo Reversing
If your servo is going the wrong way, you can take if off your plane and flip it over, this will manually reverse it. Or you can even flip only the servo arm to the other side leaving your servo in place if this works out. Most radios will have a reverse switch, knob, or computer setting.

Servo Travel
If your servo does not move enough, remember you can adjust that manually like we covered last week (scroll down). You do this by putting the push rod on the servo arm on the FARTHEST hole and the clevis on the control horn on the SHORTEST hole. If you have a 6ch radio you can also go into your settings and increase or decrease the amount of travel for each servo.

Servo Slaving
Like everything else here, consult your manual as you may be able to do servo slaving from your radio. If not, just get a simple y-connector and plug it in. Works great.

Trim
When you take your plane off, its going to veer to the right, left, up, down, whatever. You correct this while it's flying by using your trim tabs on your radio. As much as you can, adjust your pushrods manually so you do not waste your trim clicks.

Sub Trim
Most of the time you should not need this. As much as you can adjust the trim of the airplane as close as you can manually with the control horns be extending or shortening the clevis at the end of the pushrod (see last week's video, scroll down). But if you really need to, you can go into your radio and there should be a setting to allow you to trim it even more from there.
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How to Install Servos, Push Rods, and Control Horns (Class 3)

Posted January 29th, 2009 at 11:01 AM by ThursdayBeginnerBlog
(Class 3)

A few things to remember:
- Have the leading edge of your control horn right over your hinge line.
- You can put your servos where ever you'd like. I put mine up close towards the center of gravity (CG) as much as I can so it helps the plane balance better.
- For the largest amount of control throws, put your push rod in the top hole of the servo arm and the lowest hole in your control horn.
- For the least amount of control throws, put your push rod in the lowest hole of the servo arm and the highest hole in the control horn.
- Here is a good video on another way to do pushrods.
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