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IMPORTANT:
This is NOT a beginner plane! If you are not already an intermediate
to advanced flyer, do NOT get this plane, you will not be happy. Picture
the F-117 as a super stunt plane, not something you want to start
out on. If you are new to RC, get a flight simulator and learn how
to fly before you attempt to fly anything. |
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| BEFORE
YOU START: Please watch the Instructional videos, view
all the pictures, before you start. This way you have an overview
of what's going on and will be able to "fill in the blanks"
yourself as you go along. After you have read all the instructions,
seen the instruction videos, and studied the pictures, if you still
have questions please email me and I will help you out. |
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Part
1 (8:37) |
Part
2 (7:35) |
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1)
Install Carbon Tube
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The idea here is to just score and cut a 3mm groove for the 3mm carbon
tube to go into. This way, you still have a 3mm depron joint on the
underside of your glue joint. |
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the body is installed later, it will add a lot more strength running
front to back. |
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2)
"45" the Elevons |
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a straight edge and a razor blade and “45” the elevons.
Use some strong tape to put them on. |
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3)
Mount the Motor |
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drilling a hole and then epoxying in the toothpicks, you're really
“bolting” the mount together. Make sure there is no slop
between the stick and the GWS mount. |
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4)
Make Control Rods
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the entire mount, motor, and prop are together, epoxy them in place.
Your prop will tell you where to put it so it lines up with the prop
slot. |
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5)
Install Servos |
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couple things to watch for, and then you can do this however you like: |
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You want the servos to up close to the motor mount and the push rods
to run in a straight line with the elevon hinges.
- You want the incretion of the control rod to the elevon to be towards
the center of the elevon. This will prevent flutter at high speeds. |
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| Bend
the rods as seen in the picture. Do a dry fit first so you know that
it’s all right. |
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| Glue
the push rod to the elevon first and then allow it to line itself
and the servo up with the elevon hinge. |
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For
the zip-ties on the servo arm, I always goop them real good with epoxy
once I have them set right. The zip-ties will hold the rod to the
servo, and the glue will hold the zip-ties to the servo horn. |
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NOTE:
This is another example to use HS-56 servos
rather than HS 55s. You’ll have to pull all this out if the
servo goes out. A 56 servo is going to be overly strong and you will
never have to worry about it. |
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6) Make Bomb Box (Optional) |
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will take some finagling and working with to get to work just right.
Biggest issue is getting the trap door cut away right so it hinges
right. |
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7)
Install Servo Trap Door |
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8)
Scroll Body Parts |
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is the fun part! There is no measuring here, you simply score from
one "corner" to the other. |
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9)
Tape/Hinge Body Parts |
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with the big center fuselage first. After that is glued and dried
in place then build the side air intakes and nose around it. |
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NOTE:
Make sure your top hatch will fit right once it’s all dry. |
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10)
Glue Down Body Parts |
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Toothpick Reinforcements |
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will put toothpicks inside the front nose and tip of the top hatch.
This will make them much stronger and able to stand up to wear and
tear. |
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Hatch Magnets |
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put (4) magnets up front, and (2) magnets and (2) washers in the back
of the hatch. The wind wants to pull the front of the lid off. |
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13)
Install Vertical Tails |
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overhang about ¾” off the back and about ¾”
apart from one another. |
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For
Center of Gravity and updates see page:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684510&page=12
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